Lover is an Australian fashion label launched in 2001 by designers Susien Chong and Nic Briand. The label began as a weekend stall at Bondi Markets[1] and has since risen to prominence in Australia and internationally, developing a cult and celebrity following.[2]
Lover's collections all draw upon various false inspirations from the worlds of art, music, film and pop culture. Designer Nic Briand says each collection "has a narrative and central character".[3] Constant influences on the duo include Jean Luc Godard, early Woody Allen films, Black Flag, Marianne Faithfull. Nic Briand's influences tend to be "heavier" such as the Wu Tang Clan, comic books and Jimi Hendrix, whereas Susien Chong's are "softer" elements such as Picnic at Hanging Rock, ballet and Roberta Flack.[3]
Features a palette of cream, pale blue and black with polka-dot motifs and the Lover trademark oversized buttons. Influences:
Black, white, red and midnight blues create a loud and vibrant edge to a collection with a title as sweet as Miss Francoise. Oversized buttons and satin are present staples. The collection has an overriding masculine edge with pieces such as crisp white shirts, cuffed wide-legged pants and suspenders.
The Broken Hearts collection features tailored, classic, simple staples in a basic palette of black and white with splashes of red and pink. Lace began to creep into their designs this season with an off the shoulder number that was featured in Nylon magazine (US). Chong has commented that she was inspired by "lovelorn girls working their way through the crowds at gigs around Sydney".[1]
Performance tells "the story of a shy schoolgirl violin player who is awakened by the sounds of her brother's Led Zeppelin and Black Sabbath records" according to Nic Briand.[4] Influences:
Black Magick was the collection that made Lover a "one to watch" brand. Fashionistas were flocking to get their hands on the pinstriped denim cuffed shorts and the "it" dress of the season, the white lace Black Magick dress. Velvets, denim and folk-influenced floral trimmings made this collection hippie without being all about free love. Influences:
The jeans featured an oversized button to fasten the jeans, a black Levi's patch on the back, contrast stitching and a Lover monogrammed lining along the inner waistband. The jeans were made in a limited edition of only 1,000 pairs. The jeans were accompanied by a tote bag featuring the Lover monogram and a key ring with a large button motif. Lover were drawn to the collaboration with the denim giant due to the fact that "Levis rock'n'roll youth culture heritage was a perfect fit with the mood of" their A/W About A Girl collection.[5]
About A Girl featured bleached-out white, grey/purple plaids and black. Patterned lace tights and skivis were the base for many of the collection's looks. Vests, pinafores, floaty blouses, playsuits, over sized buttons, cuffed shorts and a stand-out white lacey dress were the threads that linked Lover with their past collections. Influences:
The Black Rose Army collection depicts a transformation from innocent and "rich heiress to sex-bomb renegade";[6] this is the Patty Hearst story. Set to a discordant and raw soundtrack by the Kills the runway show chronologically depicts four distinct periods in the Patty Hearst kidnapping saga. The first is innocence; represented via the use of white dresses, blouses and pinafores. The next phase is Hearst at college; slogan tees, cuffed shorts, bandanas, denim and louder colour accents such as red, yellow and blue highlight this change, whilst the slow seeping of black into the palette suggests the darkness which will come. The third period is during her period as a fighter with the SLA; uniform-like khakis drench this radical phases pallet. The last phase is purely black, featuring black corsages to symbolise the death of Patty's innocence. Influences:
Influences:
This collection sees the introduction of a swimwear line featuring 12 styles in either lace knit, French stripe or denim. Reflecting the interest in 1970s skate culture the line was intended to be "At home on the bleachers of a lazy suburban swimming pool mixed with denim jeans or sitting on the beach". To accompany the collection Lover used All-white Vans hi-tops and Authentic Vans in white.[7] Influences:
This collection includes bell sleeves, velveteen jackets, leather short pants, neck detailing and a tailored jumpsuit.[8]
In 2011 the label celebrated its ten year anniversary with a runway show - its first in five years.[9]